Gault&Millau
- Dany Ludvíková
- Jun 13, 2025
- 4 min read
A Guide to Culinary Excellence
Did you know that while the Michelin Guide started as a way to sell tyres, Gault&Millau was born purely out of love for food? Founded in 1965 by two passionate French journalists, Henri Gault and Christian Millau, this guide set out to challenge the rigid traditions of restaurant ratings, celebrating creativity, bold flavours, and innovation in the kitchen.
The Origins of Gault&Millau
The 1960s marked an exciting time in the culinary world. Chefs were moving away from heavy, overly complicated dishes and embracing fresh, seasonal ingredients. Gault and Millau were at the forefront of this shift, championing "nouvelle cuisine", a movement that emphasized lightness, natural flavours, and artistic presentation. Their guide didn't just document this change—it helped shape it, encouraging chefs to break boundaries and rethink the way food is experienced.
The Ten Commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine
To capture the essence of this new approach to food, Gault&Millau defined ten core principles that continue to influence chefs today:
Use only the freshest ingredients – Quality produce makes all the difference.
Reduce cooking times – Preserve the integrity of flavours and textures.
Minimize heavy sauces – Opt for fresh, natural reductions.
Prioritize healthier techniques – Grill, steam, or poach instead of deep-frying.
Avoid unnecessary complexity – Let the ingredients shine.
Emphasize regional and seasonal products – Respect what nature provides.
Elevate presentation – A meal should be a feast for the eyes, too.
Encourage creativity – Experimentation leads to new discoveries.
Respect natural flavours – Don’t mask great ingredients with too much seasoning.
Allow chefs to express their personal style – Great cuisine should tell a story.
The Toque: A Different Approach to Ratings
Unlike Michelin’s star system, Gault&Millau introduced the "toque"—the traditional chef’s hat—as a symbol of culinary excellence. Restaurants are scored on a 20-point scale, with higher scores earning more toques:
Points System (0-20)
Below 10 points – Not recommended.
10-11 points – A decent restaurant, but nothing exceptional.
12-13 points – A good restaurant with reliable food and service.
14-15 points – Very good cuisine with some creative elements.
16-17 points – Excellent and refined cuisine, close to gourmet level.
18-19 points – Outstanding, near world-class cooking.
20 points – Perfection (very rarely awarded).
Toques System (Chef’s Hats)
Toques are awarded based on the points:
1 Toque – (12-13.5 points) Good restaurant.
2 Toques – (14-15.5 points) Very good cuisine.
3 Toques – (16-17.5 points) Excellent, creative cooking.
4 Toques – (18-19.5 points) Among the best restaurants.
5 Toques – (20 points) Ultimate culinary excellence (extremely rare).
In 2004, Marc Veyrat became the first chef to receive a perfect 20/20 rating, later joined by Sergio Herman at Oud Sluis.
Spotlighting Culinary Talent
Gault&Millau has always been about discovering talent, putting the spotlight on chefs who redefine gastronomy. Legends like Joël Robuchon, Alain Ducasse, and Michel Troisgros all found early recognition through the guide. In 1990, Paul Bocuse, Frédy Girardet, and Joël Robuchon were named "Chefs of the Century", a testament to their groundbreaking influence.
Notable Chefs and Restaurants
In recent years, Gault&Millau has continued to highlight top talent. In 2017, Alexandre Couillon of La Marine in Noirmoutier was named Chef of the Year. Other notable recognitions include Yannick Alléno, whose innovative approach to modern French cuisine has earned him multiple accolades, and Anne-Sophie Pic, one of the few female chefs to receive a high rating in the guide.
The guide has also highlighted Mauro Colagreco's Mirazur, which has consistently been recognized as one of the best restaurants in the world. In Spain, the celebrated restaurant Martín Berasategui continues to receive high ratings for its exceptional Basque cuisine.
Additionally, in Australia, Attica by Ben Shewry has gained recognition for redefining contemporary dining with indigenous ingredients.
The Principles That Guide Gault&Millau
To maintain trust and credibility, Gault&Millau operates on key principles:
Integrity and Ethics – Anonymous evaluations ensure honest reviews.
Objectivity and Independence – Standardized criteria keep reviews fair.
Support and Respect – Chefs receive constructive feedback to refine their craft.
Recognition and Awareness – Both established and emerging chefs get the spotlight.
Knowledge and Progress – The guide encourages innovation and culinary education.
A Global Presence
Originally a European sensation, Gault&Millau has expanded into a diverse range of countries worldwide. Today, the guide is present in France, Belgium, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Poland, Hungary, Italy, Spain, Canada, Australia, Israel, Croatia, Georgia, Slovenia, the Czech Republic, and the United Arab Emirates, as well as Japan.
With its growing influence, Gault&Millau continues to shape the global culinary landscape by recognizing outstanding restaurants and chefs across different cultures and regions.
Gault&Millau in the Czech Republic
Gault&Millau recently expanded into the Czech Republic, marking a significant milestone for the country's culinary scene. The guide introduced a fresh perspective on fine dining in the region, recognizing some of the best establishments and chefs.
Among the highest-rated restaurants are Restaurant Papilio, La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, Field, Eska, and The Eatery, all of which received praise for their innovation and culinary excellence. Leading Czech chefs such as Jan Punčochář, Radek Kašpárek, and Přemek Forejt have also been recognized for their contributions to modern Czech gastronomy.
Additionally, the guide highlights a new generation of rising culinary stars, including Otto Vašák from Restaurant Essens, named "Chef of Tomorrow", and Barbora Šimůnková from Prague's Leaf, who received the "Talent under 35" award. These recognitions shine a light on the future of Czech cuisine, celebrating both established chefs and fresh new talents.
Gault&Millau in the UK
While Gault&Millau is more prominent in mainland Europe, its presence in the UK is growing, with select restaurants in London and Edinburgh receiving recognition. Notable chefs like Claude Bosi and Tom Sellers have been praised for their innovative takes on modern British cuisine.
